TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 01 review

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 01 (the “01”) has been labeled “the affordable Hublot” for obvious reasons. First, this was the first new TAG to be unveiled under the leadership of M. Jean-Claude Biver, who led Hublot to such spectacular heights. Second, the 01 resembles many Hublot Big Bang models with skeleton dials. From what I have read, TAG Heuer actually implemented all sorts of cost-efficient techniques during production in order to deliver a high-end timepiece experience at an affordable price. But let’s be realistic- the 01 is still a very expensive watch by most standards. With an MSRP of nearly $7,000 CAD, it is in Rolex and IWC price ranges. Nevertheless, TAG Heuer made a real effort to offer a really spectacular piece at an attractive price rather than just pricing it into the high-roller category. This is quite refreshing because it seems to fly in the face of what most watchmakers have been doing for the past decade. The watchmaking industry seems to have adopted the Veblen goods philosophy, where demand for a product rises along with its price. It’s the idea that the more expensive a product becomes, the more people demand it. Certain timepieces (who will rename unnamed) have gotten crazy expensive despite using very basic and common movements, very basic materials, and very old designs. Then here comes the Heuer 01, with a brand new design and an in-house chronograph movement and cool features at a LOWER price. This, by itself, will be a turn-off for many watch collectors as the Veblen goods idea makes them shun the 01 for its entry-level-luxury-price. As I will discuss, however, the 01 should be appreciated for its design and impact without any consideration for its price

The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 01 comes in a 45mm stainless steel case, coated with titanium carbide. The case is made in an unconventional modular manner where different components are assembled to form the case. This will allow TAG to eventually produce variations of the same case with different colors, bezels, etc. and remain very cost-effective. The Caliber Heuer 01 movement is said to be a slightly modified Caliber 1887 which, as you all know, was designed by Seiko and then bought by TAG Heuer. The 1887 and 01 movements are, in fact, produced by TAG and can consider themselves in-house movements. The Caliber Heuer 01 is also a column wheel chronograph, which is a higher end design than cam-activated chronographs. The strap is a brand new design with perforated racing style rubber and a wonderful deployment clasp. Let me tell you right away that this is the most comfortable strap I have ever worn on a timepiece — ever. The most obvious design feature of the 01 is the skeleton dial, which you will either love or hate.

The skeleton dial of the 01 is the complete opposite! I had begun to crave something more visually complex with a more complex movement, such as a chronograph. The advantage of those simple designs is that they are recognizable from across the room. The 01 is spectacular in its own right and offers its owner a visual delight as it exposes the date wheel and some of the gears. From the back, you can view more of the movement and you can even see the red column wheel. The visual effect of the 01 is loud, spectacular, and fascinating to look at on your wrist. As you examine it in different lights and angles, you keep noticing different features and this makes it ultra entertaining to wear.

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